Tightening a Terror choke

<P style="MARGIN: 0px">Since there has been some interest express in the Terror chokes, I thought I would post on how to tighten them, since they have no notches cut in them for a choke wrench.</P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">&nbsp;</P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">In order to maximize the strength of the tube, Sure Cycle does not cut notches in the ends of their Terror chokes.&nbsp; Instead, they knurl the end to give some purchase on the tube while tightenng.&nbsp; While the Terror chokes (and Wad Wizard chokes, which are also made by Sure Cycle)&nbsp;are manufactured to closer tolerances than most other choke systems, I don't like to just hand tighten&nbsp;any chokes&nbsp;in the barrel.&nbsp; You can get away with that when shooting lead, but I have seen too many chokes loosen after a few shots, and that creates more stress on the barrel and choke threads on the passage of the shot charge through the choke.&nbsp; </P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">&nbsp;</P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">I saw one fellow's Rem. 870 Express lose a choke while duck hunting for that reason, a failure to properly tighten the choke when shooting steel shot.&nbsp; It just came out with a shot and was lost somewhere in the marsh.&nbsp; He had been offered the use of a choke wrench but declined, to his dismay,&nbsp;during the hunt he later discovered his&nbsp;choke was missing from his barrel.</P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">&nbsp;</P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">I use a section of plastic tube&nbsp;cut from a 10ga. Rem. hull, slit down one side and wrapped around the knurled portion of the choke.&nbsp; I use a standard pliers, opened up, and grasp the&nbsp;plastic encased tube, applying just enough pressure to turn the tube, but not cut through the plastic.&nbsp; When the tube starts to slip inside the plastic, it is tight enough.&nbsp; You will have to replace the plastic every so often to prevent the pliers from cutting through and marring the tube.&nbsp; </P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">&nbsp;</P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">Before using any choke tube, be certain to put a choke tube lube or molybdenum disulfide grease (Never Seize) on the threads.&nbsp; If you don't, the choke, or the threads in the barrel,&nbsp;can rust and the choke can become seized.&nbsp; Some times you can remove them, some times you can't.&nbsp; If you put a choke in and leave it for a long time, as do I, you can just wrap the threads with Teflon pipe thread tape, wrapped to tighten as the choke is screwed into the barrel.&nbsp; It won't loosen until you do it.</P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">&nbsp;</P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">The Terror choke is not made from stainless steel.&nbsp; It is made from chrome molybdenum steel (4130) which is similar to that used in making blued steel high power rifle barrels.&nbsp; However, it is heat treated to about 42 C on the Rockwell scale.&nbsp; Most factory high power rifle barrels are about 30 C, so they can be button rifled.&nbsp; However, this greater strength comes at a cost, that being you must clean and oil the Terror choke or it&nbsp;will rust.</P>

 

<P>When I put Teflon pipe thread tape on the threads, I never have to "hug" any of my chokes any more, even the sloppy fitting&nbsp;Rem. chokes, until I want to&nbsp;change them.<IMG src="http://www.websitetoolbox.com/images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif" align=absMiddle border=0></P>