<P><FONT face="times new roman, times, serif">Are Herters 72 diver dekes worth their price? </FONT></P>
<P>G<FONT face="Times New Roman">uys, I plan to use them only on big open water in longline rigs and I need to know if they ride well over waves. I should've put that in the original post. </FONT></P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px"><FONT face="Times New Roman">As far as the burlap, should I buy them new that way, or just do it myself when I can, maybe during their touch-up painting after the first or second season? </FONT></P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px"><FONT face="Times New Roman"></FONT> </P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Thanks for the help. </FONT></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 0px">I was checkin out the unpainted decoys on cabela's website, and what is the difference between the regular model 72s and the ultimate model 72s? The look the same, the discripition is the same and their $20 more a dozen. </P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">thanks</P>
<P>so... would ya be better off to buy the hard plastics, or the reg foams and burlap em? Does the burlap serve a purpose other than protecting the foam from damage? Ive only ever hunted over and owned plastic, but would like to upgrade the spread really appreciate the info guys.</P>
<P style="MARGIN: 0px">I would go with the burlap as suggested. Thanks again Ken for those tips on burlapping a year or so ago! </P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px"> </P> <P style="MARGIN: 0px">When the burlap and tile mastic (or whatever you use on the decoy) cures, it makes the decoy extremely durable and tough. If you can hook up with someone in your area that has some burlapped decoys you will see what I and others are talking about when we refer to how durable a burlapped decoy is. These decoys also show up and ride on the big water very well. </P>
